Tasmania 2023 – week 2 Kermandie and surrounds
Day 12
So, initially the plan for today was very quiet, after we revised things last night. It included a visit to the laundromat (very exciting…not) …until, we met the chap who was doing the groundswork at Kermandie Hotel. He suggested that the day was perfect to go see Cockle Creek – somewhere I had as a maybe on our itinerary but had revised as my fungi spotter wasn’t so enthusiastic. We went to Cockle Creek, via Geeveston (way there and back), without the laundromat visit.
The last 23km or so in were gravel and we again played dodgems with potholes but there is something truly special about being at the southern most point in your trip around Tasmania. The colours of the water were spectacular. The day was clear and the sun was generous with her attention. The whale sculpture is also significant. As with Huon Pines, whales were decimated by our forbears. So often, we do not appreciate what we have until much too late. There were too many whales killed for whatever purpose our forebears decided they should meet. I am glad we are more enlightened but also saddened at the loss of such beautiful creatures. I have regard for the fortitude and tenacity of those who hunted whale.
As we were driving in on the gravel road, we saw nanna driving out in her Toyota Echo. We figured it couldn’t be too bad if such a vehicle had emerged from the southern regions. She must have been used to the road. It takes at least 45 minutes to go the distance, each in and out.
As we pass through the countryside, we see hedgerows. The country is so like England in so many places. The colours of the leaves continue to amuse me as do the colours of the many and beautiful fungi, of larger and teensy weensy sizes we saw today. When the walk is sign posted as 30 minutes, and there is the possibility of fungi, it becomes something much longer as I stop and photograph every one I reasonably can. I am sure my fungi leggings help.
Coming back we stop briefly at the Lune River where some canoers tell us they had seen dolphins in the river with them.
Moving on to Hastings Cave, we are blown away by the strength and patience of mother nature. She has created quite an artwork here. We get to 50m below ground – there is 25 metres from the floor to the roof of the cave we stand in and a further 25m of rock above, then dirt and tree canopies above that. It is absolutely pitch black inside when the lights are turned off. There is a thermal pool as well at the visitor centre – the creek has a cold side and a warm side. The pool is 28 degrees.
The cave is 9 degrees inside, we come back out to 17 degrees which feels positively balmy. The cave is so quiet you can hear your thoughts or tinnitus or both. It is run by Parks and Wildlife. There are about 500 steps down and up and my knees remind me a little of their existence. The Cave was discovered in 1917 by a group of men who were felling a huge tree. It fell on the cave entry and opened up this magical universe. The cave is estimated at 650 million years of age. We see a broken off stalagmite which evidences at least 3 ice ages over approximately 75,000 years. These are real, subtle, reminders of our small place on the earth and in earth’s history when you accept the science about the development of Earth. About one-tenth of the cave is open.
We are driving the Southern Edge Drive Journey, having done the Western Wilds and some of the Forage Trail. Our Southern Edge Drive takes us back to Geeveston and the Wall of Lollies – worth a visit, really cool place.
Returning to our hotel, we stop at the bar for a beverage and a pretty fine dinner – the bar serves a slightly different menu from the restaurant and for our purposes this evening, it had what my fungi spotter was after – trout. The food was delicious.
So, having a concept for travel is great, however, sometimes it is necessary to just take time and see where the road takes you. It’s really quite amazing, at times, what you can stumble across.
